Wednesday, September 9, 2015

Wed 9 Sept - Frida and Margaritas

Started our exploring with a return to Centro Historico, with some detours.

First spot Cafe Lucky...Lisa's dog Lucky has chihuahuan heritage, and is famous here too..

Then past the fab bakery with a promise to ourselves to return for a light lunch.  Such a wonderful place. 

Then onto Palacio Belles Artes (just because it looks fabulous in the daylight too) and Palacio Corrio, below, for some stamps for postcards. 

Nearby the post office is this covered over statue...a sad story. The city put out a tender for the statue to be restored. The group who won the deal split the tender $ with the government than ran off with the other portion. This is all they have done in 2 years.

And the tiled house. All within 2 block area.

Next stop was the oldest church - of San Francisco - which Di saw feom the outside the other day but missed inside. Lovely and more ornate than Di expected. Although Di did like the nativity scene painting. 

Then onto the big Metropolitan cathedral which is OTP ornate inside and out. 

Some of the features...

But Di asks "why are the Angels holding bird houses?"

Back outside Lisa paused to check out Lucky-sized sombreros.  Very cute. 

Then some duplication of walking tour for Di as she showed Lisa some of the lovely buildings in the area. 

Back to the bakery for lunch and snacks, and matched with a Corona for lunch.   Food was great but we won't do hotel room lunch again. So much else to see...

Took the metro from Juarez to Coyocan for 5 pesos each. System seemed good to us - a bit crowded and warm but ran regularly and was pretty fast. 

We were headed to Frida Kahlo's blue house.  She and the famous muralist Diego Rivierea married and lived there for much of their married life. They were an odd couple and were dubbed the elephant and the dove. Guess why?  But she adored him and seemed to be his biggest fan until he had an affair with her sister and Frida divorced him. 
Frida was also very talented but this was not recognised in her home country until much later in her life (which was short and painful 1 more in this later). 

She had a zest for life and her last painting showed this with a statement "long live life". 

Diego was also talented, but their home seems full of her personality and bohemian style. They were communists and friends with Trotsky (and Frida was for a while his'lover) but she was also a constant entertainer.


Few knew how painful her life was. Three miscarriages and it became clear she could not bear children. 

Childhood polio, a shortened leg, and a tragic bus accident left her in need of back braces for nearly all her life. Her life ended when they had to amputate her right foot. But she never complained. 

The home is lovely and colourful. Her painting desk, their dining room and lovely garden.




They showed a documentary movie in an open air room in the garden (behind the blue wall on the left). We wished we had seen this at the beginning!


Di relaxed for a moment...


So did the cat...


All up one of the best gallery/museums which left you with a real sense of their marriage, home life and of course Frida. Fantastic. 

Back in the subway to have a coffee break near our hotel, then back to our hotel to get sorted for another wander out.  Yep back to Centro Historico. 

The protestors are back...some cute guys this time 

And we searched for our first Mexico City margaritas.  Good price but what a disappointment. We could barely taste the tequila or lime. 


Margarita Cocktail number 2 was much much better. Great Tequila and lime flavour and just around the corner from our hotel... Dangerous. 

We needed some food...definitely munchies, which called for more chicken wings, so back to the Di's favourite place (3rd time). 

We shared BBQ wings and honey mustard chook breast strips but no photos as you know how it can be at 9pm after few drinks...they were delicious and we hoovered them down. 

A nice beer to finish it off - a Mexican craft beer for Lisa was voted very nice but strong. Di went back to another old favourite,,,

Big day but very good. 

Buenas noches. 













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